Every year we perform a few experiments in the cellar: different fermentation techniques, pressing cycles, new types of barrels, etc.. Some are very interesting, some not so much. A few produce results we adopt as standard procedure, most are forgotten.
One of the areas we played around a bit with the 2008 vintage was with lees additions and stirring in our Pinot Noir.
Lees, the spent yeast cells left over from fermentation, are the source of a lot of interest to winemakers. They contain lots of interesting compounds and stirring the lees, or
batonnage, is very common in barrel-fermented Chardonnay and occasionally used in other white wines. Stirring Pinot Noir isn't unheard of but is relatively rare. The effect of aging sur lie is enhanced by stirring. Our experiment was set up as follows (with my tasting notes):
08PNED (2008 SCM Pinot Noir from the Edmunds Vineyard in the Summit Rd. area)
Control- Beautiful, bright, black cherry fruit with earth and plum skin, medium-long finish with some awkward tannins on the finish- shows its youth.
Stir- More subdued nose, some muddled fruit, earth, smoke and gravely/rock flavors. The mouth is more put together, rounder and integrated.
08PNBP (2008 Pinot Noir, Regan Vineyard, Corralitos area, Pommard clone)
Control- Forward fruit, some decent tannin, full bodied, masculine
Stir- More rounded, but fruit is subdued. slightly muddled with better mouth, but less delineated flavors.
+1 gal Chard lees- Brighter fruit, complex, still some youthful tannin
+1 gal Chard lees and stirring- brighter and somewhat more muddled. black and red fruit, with round mouth
Some brief thoughts:I think that adding a bit of Chard lees can freshen and brighten a lot, but it does seem to add some none varietal notes; maybe use this in a small percentage of barrels?
Stirring seems to round out the mouth and improve the palate, but it muddles flavors and dampens the fruit and spice character.
All in all the tasting was educational. I don't think we will implement either of these across the board. These techniques are probably best used on problem lots, I would hesitate to use it on our best barrels, but I think I have a better handle on the effects these techniques bring to the table.
